Things to Do in Trogir

Climb St Lawrence Cathedral bell tower

The 47-metre bell tower rewards the thigh-burn with a 360-degree panorama: terracotta tiles below, the cobalt channel between Čiovo and the mainland, and, if the bora wind has scrubbed the sky, the hazy outline of Split's Marjan hill. Each narrow landing smells faintly of incense and old stone dust, and the final metal ladder sways in the breeze. Hold tight for the photo.

Sunset walk along Kamerlengo Castle ramparts

The 15th-century fortress turns peach at dusk, its battlements framing Čiovo pines and the incoming sailboats. Swiftsts slap the adjacent promenade while buskers strum Dalmatian klapa songs, and the salt spray lands faintly on your lips.

Peka lunch in a Konoba on Radovan Square

Several stone-vaulted taverns slow-cook lamb or octopus under iron bell lids, the meat emerging smoky and fall-apart tender. You'll smell the embers as the lid lifts, hear the sizzle, and taste wine that's travelled fewer kilometres than the olive oil.

Day sail to Drvenik Veli's Blue Lagoon

Skippers tie up to mooring buoys where the seabed glows an improbable turquoise, so clear you can see sea urchins browsing the posidonia grass. Jumping from the bow produces that satisfying slap-crack of skin on 24-degree water, followed by the taste of salt on sun-dried lips.

Friday morning produce market by the bridge

Growers from the hinterland unload wicker baskets of sour cherries, shaved prosciutto and goat-cheese rounds still bearing thumbprints of mountain herbs. The market bell clangs at 7 a.m.; by 11 the tarps come down and the scent of marjoram lingers over the pavement.

Inside the walls - expect creaky staircases, church bells at 6 a.m. and the smell of stone that never fully dries, but you'll sleep inside a UNESCO grid

South-west Čiovo (Okrug Gornji) - long pebble strand, beach bars with lounge beats, 10 min water-taxi to Trogir when you crave city lights

North Čiovo (Arbanija/Mastrinka) - family houses, pine-shade coveses, cheaper than central Trogir and still on the bus line

Seget Vranjica peninsula - marina village, sunset-facing balconies, mid-range apartments popular with German sailors

Split-road hinterland (Donji Seget) - rural guesthouses among olive groves, cicadas louder than traffic, you'll need wheels or goodwill to reach town

Kava hinterland hamlets - stone cottages on vineyard slopes, zero nightlife, perfect if you've rented a scooter and want to buy wine straight from the barrel